p e r u : d a y t h r e e

My boards arrived at one o'clock on the second day and we went directly to the "best break in Lima", Herradora. It was overcast, cold, huge, and rocky. I didn't realize how big it actually was and paddled out on my 5'10. Not enough board for the macking double overhead plus sets that were pushing through. I was either not making it into the wave or trying to airdrop backside. I pulled off a couple drops for some super fun rides, but more often than not I ended up getting pummeled.

Today we headed south on the Pan American highway to a surf camp run by this rad dude, Oscar. Oscar gave us a ride to a left hand point known as Puerto Viejo (Old Point). Here I broke out the camera gear and filmed these big rollers filling the foggy sky.