more amazingness from fanfarlo

This band is brilliant.




In other news, a different version of the video Dustin and I made is up Surfline.

p e r u : d a y ?

Where we are staying in Chicama is ridiculous. It may be the coolest hotel I've ever stayed at, no, it definitely is. You can sit in hot tub on the deck and watch the entire wave break down the point. The atmosphere, style, and people here are superb. I feel kind of out of place staying in such luxury in this dusty, small, middle of nowhere town.

I surfed for a few hours yesterday, this wave is fantastic! It needs a good size swell to break right, but was working well yesterday...today, not so much. And a good thing because I was in bed most of the day making frequent trips to el bano. Both ends. My theory of brushing my teeth with the local water to build up immunity just bit the dust. Actually, it is working. I bet I don't get this bug again while I am here. Best to get it out of the way early.

We will stay here for a couple more days before heading back south and to Machu Pichu.

Vaya con Dios!

p e r u : d a y t h r e e

My boards arrived at one o'clock on the second day and we went directly to the "best break in Lima", Herradora. It was overcast, cold, huge, and rocky. I didn't realize how big it actually was and paddled out on my 5'10. Not enough board for the macking double overhead plus sets that were pushing through. I was either not making it into the wave or trying to airdrop backside. I pulled off a couple drops for some super fun rides, but more often than not I ended up getting pummeled.

Today we headed south on the Pan American highway to a surf camp run by this rad dude, Oscar. Oscar gave us a ride to a left hand point known as Puerto Viejo (Old Point). Here I broke out the camera gear and filmed these big rollers filling the foggy sky.

s. america and other endevours

Hello friends. I am preparing to head south to the ancient Incan kingdom of Peru. It can be argued that the Peruvians are actually the founding fathers of surfing and not the ancient Polynesians. I will be starting work on a surf based documentary and surfing my brains out.

The documentary is going to explore the world's best waves through the eyes of the people who live on their shores and show how these local surfers revolve their lives around the wind and the tides. This will be the first trip of what may be a year and a half long project journeying through 25+ countries.

On this first trip down south we hope to score some heavers like this:

And find some endless points like this super long slider:


Gracias por leer! Vaya con Dios.

the least of these and costa rica.

The hungry.

Those without clean water.

Complete strangers.

The naked and cold.

The sick and diseased.

The incarcerated. 

Jesus said that if we neglect these people we neglect him.  

____________________

I leave for Costa Rica in the morning to do some filming for this movie:

So stoked.